Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Falling asleep early Monday evening after nearly a full 24-hours of travel was easy. Staying asleep was the difficult part. I had finally laid down just past 7:00 PM and Travis followed shortly after. By 1:00 AM local time I was awake and felt like I had a full night of sleep. Of course, my body, and to some degree my brain, felt as if it should still be around 8:00 PM. Determined to avoid escalating any problems with jet lag we both stayed in bed and fought to get back to sleep. About an hour later we were finally able to.

We awoke fairly early on our second day in Switzerland at around 7:30 AM. The room was still dark which seemed odd given that the drapes covering the two nearly wall-sized window/doors out to the balcony were not particularly heavy. I climbed out of bed and pulled back the curtains to discover a thick snowfall coming down and thus eclipsing much of the days light. It was a truly magnificent scene with the heavy snow slowly falling to the ground and the trees on the mountainsides already with a firm dusting of white. Given that I grew up in Illinois but left that state when I was ten (23 years ago) it had been a while since I had experienced a snowfall and I loved just taking it all in. I had the sudden urge to pull on coat, hat, scarf and gloves and run out to play in it. The urge was fleeting and instead Travis and I jumped back into bed, pulled up the covers, and just watched the storm from our room.

After showering and dressing we opted to head down to the dining room for the included breakfast and develop the game plan for the day. Before leaving Florida we had made a very generalized itinerary of things we wanted to do and see while in Switzerland but we left enough flexibility to account for changing weather and changing desires as the trip moved along. Penciled in for today was the Jungfrau or the Schilthorn – two of the mountain peaks we wanted to visit.

Hotel Bellevue put on a nice breakfast that included a selection of grains, cereals, and dried fruits (perhaps more than twelve in all), fresh baked breads and croissants, a cheese tray with many different Swiss cheeses and a few French ones as well, a selection of yogurts, jams, and jellies, hard-boiled eggs, and, of course, breakfast-oriented beverages including coffee, tea, orange and grapefruit juice, and milk.

While the French may certainly dominate the cheese market the Swiss clearly make known they come in a very strong second. Cheese often dominated the meals that we enjoyed throughout the country and, as we later noted, it was a staple and typical of a cheese and bread breakfast. The cheese shops that we would later visit in Zermatt and Lucerne, were truly cheese-lovers paradise.

Once we got some food in us, we really hadn't eaten since the “salad meal” on the plane the night before, we both noted that we were starting to feel better and looked forward to the day ahead. We finished up breakfast and asked the staff what they thought about the various conditions of the Jungfrau today. Briskly walking through the check-in area and asked by Travis what she thought, Judith checked the glass door in the direction of the summit and chimed in that it looked “not too bad.” She asked her check-in attendant to flip on the cable channel showing the top of the mountain and, from what we could surmise, the peak looked clear with lots of sun and blue skies. Our plan set we went back to the room for what became our excursion supplies: Coats, pull-overs, hats, gloves, scarves, cameras, video-camera, GPS, passports and Swiss Pass. We returned the room-key to the reception desk and were soon traipsing through the freshly fallen snow to the Wengen rail station.

During our pre-trip planning we had determined that the trip to the Jungfraujoch was going to be expensive but we didn't find out just how expensive until we got to the ticket window at the rail station. The ever-handy Swiss Pass actually provided us with a significant discount on the round trip fare from Wengen to the Jungfrau but, even so, the tickets ended up being CHF 200, or, about $100 each. Considering that's about a 50% discount due to the passes the Jungfrau is certainly not a cheap excursion.

After purchasing our tickets we jumped on the train and only had a few minutes to wait until it started rolling out of Wengen and up into the mountainous terrain. The views were pretty amazing to begin with but as the train climbed ever-higher they became even more breathtaking. Clouds billowed against the blue skies, dark green patches of forrest, and white-clapped peaks of the mountains on all sides as our train trudged up the ever-stepper incline of the mountain slope.

Perhaps ten minutes after we left Wengen we were provided with a view of the town nestled on its small plateau above the valley. It was still amazing to me that we were actually here in Europe again. And in the Swiss Alps of all places.

The train moved onward and had a brief stop at Wengernalp before pulling into Klein Scheidegg. Klein Scheidegg provided amazing views of the Wetterhorn: A truly beautiful mountain with magnificently jagged peaks thrusting skyward. Skiers obviously ruled here as there were mobs of them coming and going in just about every direction. (Given that it was ski season, well, I would guess that makes sense!) We had about 20 minutes or so before we caught the Jungfraubahn that would carry us the rest of the way up to Jungfraujoch so we decided to have a look around and take some pictures. We even found Champagne! Though, we didn't have a glass.

The Wetterhorn from Klein Scheidegg.

Our two stops on the Jungfraubahn were little more than carve-outs from the mountain sides. The final train trip actually cuts through the mountains and never actually re-emerges from the cavernous depths but rather stays safely inside. We debarked the train, took a look at the well-marked guides located throughout the station that highlighted each of the many venues and attractions, and headed to our first view from the Top of Europe!

Unfortunately, the climb from the Wetterhorn to Jungfraujock resulted in much deteriorated weather conditions and visibility. By the time we actually reached the summit the fierce wind coming over the peaks was enough to keep everyone off the viewing platforms. We did manage to bundle up to large degrees and take a few pictures as we held our breath against the wind and snow.

As mentioned, the Jungfraujoch actually hosts many different exhibits and activity areas. There are multiple viewing platforms, a restaurant, obligatory souvenir shop, ice palace, and small museum dedicated to the early years of the Jungfraubahn. We wanted to see as much as we could but had to continually remind ourselves to “take it easy.” At 11,333 ft I was surprised at how easy it actually was to become short of breath with even minimal exertion. It was also a bit unnerving that you could buy 20 minute portable oxygen tanks throughout the facility.

We started with the Plateau, which, not-so-ironically, is a, plateau. Generally, from what we could discern from pictures hanging nearby, the Plateau provides outstanding views of the nearby and distant mountain peaks in this area of Switzerland. It consists of a narrow walkway about 200 m below the top of the Jungfrau with steep a steep drop off on either side of the path. There are no guardrails on this baby but rather only wooden poles driven into the mountain with rope tied between them. On a clear and calm day the view must be astounding and the experience of actually walking on the top of this mountain one of pure amazement. Today, however, no one was brave enough to walk out on that narrow piece of land with 104 km/hr winds sweeping up one side of the embankment, across the plateau, and down the other side. We spent quite a bit of time just watching the wind and weather and contemplating the sheer power of nature.

During our time at the Plateau several other groups of visitors would come and go. We saw people from across the globe: China, U.K., Japan, Germany, and none were brave enough to walk too far past the shelter of the doorway. Although, at various lulls in the wind some did step several feet out onto the ledge for a quick picture and then an equally quick return entrance.

After video-taping from the Plateau (see video above) we decided to explore more of the facility and find the Sphinx Lift to the true “Top of Europe.” The majority of the building lies below the summit of the Jungfrau and is actually built into the side of the mountain. However, an elevator, the Sphinx Lift, exists that whisks visitors an additional 200 m upward to the true top of the Jungfrau. As we were attempting to locate the lift we happened by the Crystal Restaurant and peaked inside at the menu. The prices seemed reasonable and not much variation than what we saw in Wengen on our first evening. We did see something that especially caught our eye: Champagne. It looked like a grower-produced bottle as it had a label with the image of the Jungfrau on it. Perhaps produced especially for the restaurant and/or facility. We made note that we might want to come back for a meal but wanted to explore more first.

Onward we pressed and soon found the lift. The glass enclosure was magnificently smooth and fast in its ascension to the top of the mountain and probably covered the 108 m (354 ft) in a minute or so. At the top the view didn't open up as it would on a clear day but the enclosure itself was neat. Glass and steel surrounded you in all directions and again we could see the force of the wind and snow outside. We snapped some mandatory pictures under the “Top of Europe” sign and called GlosMagic (Why is it glos?), attempted to call some others, and then just spent some time taking it all in.

Prior to taking the Sphinx back to the lower levels of the building we browsed a small watch counter that featured some Swiss (of course) time pieces. While the artistry was phenomenal and the watches looked amazing their prices certainly reflected both.

After heading back down to the main levels we opted to check out the Ice Palace. This structure is actually carved into one of the slowest moving portions of a glacier traveling down the Jungfrau. A lot of the exhibits were under construction or updating while we visited but the hallways, rooms, and even floor, of ice were all impressive. Generally various carvings are present including full-size replicas of cars and people. The blue-lit stalagmites were impressive.

After checking out the Ice Palace we opted to head for the small (very small) museum and the main souvenir shop. The museum showcased some of the original equipment used by the Jungfraubahn including lanterns, ticket holders, and a scale model of one of the original trains.

With the time nearing 3:45 we headed back to the train station to check on the time of the last departure. Alas, we found the last train would depart at 4:45 which meant no dinner at the Crystal Restaurant. Instead we opted to visit the small cafe and have our first glass of Swiss wine of the trip. I had read that Swiss wines, both red and white, were of very high quality and very good but very little was exported out of the country. The Fendant we enjoyed lived up to the praise. The chocolate bar wasn't bad either!

Announcements began at 4:00 giving notice that the last train departure of the day was at 4:45. We finished up our wine and boarded the train. The train trip down was a bit more climatic than the trip up due, in large part, to a group of individuals seating next to us. At one point, one of them stood up and yelled something in Chinese (I think). Several others in the party then shot up and began gathering all of the, um, “motion sickness bags” throughout the train compartment. One of the conductors came into the compartment and started speaking in Swiss German as the other visitors continued in Chinese. Meanwhile, one of the other group began lurching forward and making odd sounds and then flung herself across the seat directly across from us. There she laid for the remainder of the trip as one of her female friends/family members gave her, what one might describe as, a foot pounding. No, literally, she pounded her feat with a closed fist.

On the train trip back to Wengen we decided to head to Interlaken Ost for dinner. We switched trains at Wengen and then again at Lauterbrunnen and arrived at Interlaken Ost at around 6:30 PM. By the time the train pulled into the station at Interlaken Ost a light drizzle had started to fall and the streets and sidewalks were damp with rain.

We found the main street and headed toward what looked to be a restaurant-ish type area with lots of lights and store fronts. Again, we noted that it seemed that most restaurants were owned by the hotels and nearly all were priced in close proximity to each other. We settled on a cute little bistro by the name of Des Alpes and were seated just after 7:00. Appropriate, we thought.

It was in Des Alpes that I first discovered how much of a holiday Easter is in Switzerland. The tables each had stuffed bunnies, eggs, or other such emblem of the holiday and this would be echoed throughout the remainder of our vacation.

We ordered a bottle of the house wine, another dry Fendant, and settled on Rosti for our entrees. I had the Margaretta Rosti and Travis had Walliser Rosti. Rosti is similar to a bed of baked hash brown potatoes with tons of melted cheese covering them. Mine had tomatoes and basil while Travis's had olives, onions, and a sunny-side up egg. Both were delicious we concurred! Both we also very filling!

At the end of the meal our waiter brought us a carafe of clear liquid and two shot glasses. I had see this occur at other tables as meals ended and was curious as to what it was. He explained that it was compliments of the house and was a Swiss liquor. It turned out to be Kirsch: Something like a clear scotch with a slight cherry flavor. Not sweet at all and a bit strong.

We left the restaurant close to 8:45 and began walking back toward the train station to catch the train back to Wengen. Again, a slight rain fell but it gave the city a pretty flare reflected in all of the puddles and the falling drops. As we walked back to the station we called Tana to tell her about the free schnapps and her new favorite restaurant in Interlaken (if ever should she visit) and also called a friend from work. We snapped some pictures before the boarding the train.

When we got back to Wengen we let ourselves into the Hotel Bellevue with the front door key, picked up our room key at the now-dark reception desk, and headed upstairs where I attempted a blog update but soon found myself too tired to finish. Our first full day in Switzerland was at a close and we were exhausted.

March 10, 2008

Very little sleep was had by either Travis or myself on the flight to Zürich. This was certainly not an unexpected outcome of trying to sleep in an upright, sitting position, nearly unable to move due to the confined space of your average, non-first class airline seat.

I probably napped off and on for a good four hours, however, so all was not a total loss. The flight ended up being significantly shorter than expected due to a strong and consistent tailwind that sped us across the Atlantic. An arrival time that was originally estimated at 7:40 AM (Zürich Time) quickly lost an hour and moved back to 6:30 AM.

As the cabin crew began serving a "light breakfast" consisting of a croissant, jam, cut Honeydew, and, of course, coffee, the aircraft began descending toward our destination. The city of Zürich lies near the northern center of Switzerland at quite a distance from the mountainous regions to the south. Visibility was very limited by low cloud cover as we flew into the city and we could only occasionally get a short glimpse of the surrounding city and countryside before we touched down on the tarmac.

The airport was quiet as we disembarked the plane and headed to customs. I had to make a quick stop at the nearest restroom to reinsert my contacts that I had removed prior to boarding the plane in New Jersey. (I didn't want to have to worry about taking them out during the plane ride and I don't like to sleep in them.) We were soon on our way toward the customs counters.

The young woman at the customs gate glanced at my open passport and then waved me through without much consideration. Travis soon got the same reception. We were both a bit dismayed that neither of us got a Switzerland stamp in passport but didn't even think to ask before we were shooed through the line.

Once through customs we took an escalator down to the rail station beneath the airport. We had to validate our Swiss Pass, which would allow us unlimited and unfettered transportation on nearly all public transport systems (trains, city buses, ferries, etc.) throughout the county, and quickly did so at one of the rail ticket windows. The rail representative also gave us a train schedule to follow that would take us from the Zürich airport station to Wengen, our final destination and “home” for the next four nights.

The rail system in Switzerland really does run like precision clockwork. We were originally a bit worried about making our various connections between trains until we learned the system a bit. By the end of the trip we were more than comfortable finding which trains went to which locations and we found ourselves wishing that the U.S. had a public transportation system that was even half as efficient.

The train pulled into the Zürich station and we scrambled on board. Given that it was a Monday morning, and near rush hour, the train was quiet packed. We hauled our two roll ons upstairs and found two open seats facing two other seats of which one was occupied. Unknowingly, we kept our bags with us until the much-annoyed passenger in the seats facing us suggested (in a much-annoyed tone) that we place them in the luggage rack holders. Who knew?
The train pulled out of the airport station and began winding its way toward the capital of Switzerland. Bern. I was surprised by the quaintness of the rolling hillsides and the small villages as the train shot past green fields and Swiss chalets and the mountains in the far distance grew larger and more magnificent with each passing mile. (Or, I should say, with each passing Kilometer.)

Our much-annoyed fellow passenger didn't waste too much time in relocating to another train compartment once the train rolled out of the station. He managed to mumble something beneath his breath (in English) as he was moving away. Ah, well, you can't win over everyone, huh?

The train soon rushed through Bern and the capital sped by the windows. Medieval clock towers, cobblestone streets, and winding alleys zipped by and were juxtaposed with the more contemporary trappings of a vibrant city. Our itinerary for the trip included a day trip back to Bern later in the week when we would be able to explored more of the city but for now the glimpses that the train ride afforded us were spectacular.

Interlaken Ost was our next stop and we changed trains on the banks of the two great lakes of Interlaken: Brienzersee and Thunersee. The water is a truly amazing color in the lakes as it is painted a bright turquoise blue from the glacial run off from which the lakes are fed. Again, only brief glimpses of Interlaken were gleaned before we were through the city and onward to the next stop: Lauterbrunnen.

As its name implies, Lauterbrunnen lies in the Lauterbrunnen Valley about 478 m (1568 ft) below the town of Wengen. We would change trains once last time at this station and then head upwards to our final destination which sits on a plateau above the Lauterbrunnen Valley and below the peaks of the alps in that area. Wengen sits at 1274 m or just about 4,180 ft. above sea level.

We switched trains to the cogwheel train and were soon climbing the sides of the valley as Lauterbrunned stretched out below us. About 17 minutes later we arrived in the small station of Wengen! We were finally here! Well, aside from finding out hotel, that is.

Click here for a detail map of the Jungfrau area.
Opens in new window. Scan from tourism guide placed in our room at the Bellevue.

The Hotel Bellevue had e-mailed us walking directions in order to assist us in locating the hotel since there are no actual street addresses in the town. The only vehicles that roamed the streets of the town were small electric “smart cars” that the various hotels used to taxi guests to and from the train station. We had opted to walk since we only had our roll-arounds for luggage and wanted to see some of our new home.

Signs throughout the town listed names of various hotels and other points of interest and we had soon located the Bellevue without problems. We checked in with Judith, the owner/operator, along with her husband, Andi, of the Bellevue and she advised us on the various services of the hotel including breakfast, the bar/lounge, dining room, and so on.

As Judith continued her commentary on the hotel services, surrounding area, and options for ski instruction, her assistant at the front desk disappeared into the kitchen area and soon reappeared with two glasses of pipping hot Gluwein. For those that are unsure, it's a sweet red wine from Germany that's served hot during the cold winter months of the year. It tasted much like that served at Epcot in the Germany pavilion!

Judith gave us our room key and we were soon upstairs admiring the view that looked out over the wrap-around balcony. The alps stretched as far as one could see in all directions, the Lauterbrunned valley snaked away into far crevices made where the bases of the mountains came together, and the bright red and white flag of Switzerland flapped just outside our windows. Truly a sight that can't be described in mere pictures or words but one that must simply be experienced with all the senses.

Once unpacked and after we had taken a few pictures from the balcony of our room (see above) we decided it was time to explore some of our immediate area. It was still early, only about 1:30 or so, and we wanted to get out in the fresh air in attempts to deter the foreboding jet lag that threatened.

The roads of Wengen were slushy with melting snow and the sky greatly over-cast as clouds enveloped the tops of the peaks that surrounded us. We walked up and down the main street of Wengen admiring the scenery and the shops, restaurants, bars, and other establishments that dotted the town. We had no real plans for our first afternoon, other than an attempt to stay awake for as long as we could, and decided to take pictures around Wengen and then catch the train back down to Lauterbrunnen and explore that town a bit.

Before catching the train I attempted to withdraw some Swiss Fancs from an ATM and, much to my dismay, discovered that my bank account still remained locked to international use even after calling to ensure that I would be allowed access from Switzerland. I decided to call once they opened and request (again) that it be unlocked.

Our trip to Paris and Barcelona last year presented no problems with jet lag but we soon discovered this trip wasn't to be the same. The 24-hour period of travel that we had just completed, the high elevation, overcast skies, and more probably added to our fatigue and it was all we could do to remain awake. After the trip to the valley that afternoon, more walking and picture-taking, we soon found ourselves back in our room and falling asleep. It was, perhaps, 7:00 or 7:30 PM (Zürich Time) when we finally decided enough was enough and went to bed despite the haunting voice of Rick Steves beckoning us to remain awake.

Additional photos, with descriptions, of Wengen..
Opens in new window.

Travel to Switzerland started early on Sunday morning. Early, as in, 5:00 A.M. early. Our flight out of Tampa on AirTran left at 8:00 which meant we needed to arrive at the airport by 6:00 AM according to the airline and airport “suggestions.” We didn’t want to take any chances and intended to follow them.

Travis’s dad arrived just after 5:30 and we threw the luggage into the truck and were off. After lugging WAY TOO MUCH luggage around Paris and Barcelona last summer we opted to go light for this trip. We each packed one Travel Pro rolling bag that fit the specifications for a carry on bag with all of the airlines and we each also had our camera case. This meant we had no checked bags and thus wouldn’t have to wait for luggage to be unloaded from planes and it also meant we wouldn’t have to worry about walking to our various hotels with a lot of luggage. As Rick Steves would say:

“The measure of a good traveler is how light she/he travels. You can’t travel heavy, happy, and cheap. Pick two.”

I’m not sure of the basis for my thoughts but I expected Tampa International Airport to be quiet at 6:15 AM on a Sunday morning in mid-March. Quite wrong. We had checked in for both our AirTran and Continental flight on Saturday and were able to skip the check-in counter line. However, the line for security at the air side was another matter. Although it moved quickly we were still in line for 20 minutes or so. I was, of course, selected for the famous “GE Sniffer” machine.

Once cleared through security we only had a ten minute wait at the gate before they began boarding AirTran 121 with service to Atlanta, GA.

The AirTran flight was nice and very uneventful. I entertained myself by reading the St. Petersburg Times I had brought with me from home and was thankful that it was the Sunday edition. We touched down in Atlanta just a few minutes after our scheduled time of 9:35.

The Atlanta airport can only be described as cavernous, gigantic, and, well, a behemoth! We didn’t have to change air sides which meant no trip through security. We thought everything would go smoothly aside from having to deal with the crowds of people traipsing through the airport. The “smooth” part wasn’t in the cards.

Our next AirTran flight was scheduled to leave Atlanta at 12:46 PM and arrive in Newark at 2:59 PM. We had figured on a layover of a couple hours in Atlanta but that soon changed as flight congestion in the skies far above resulted in our departure for Newark being delayed twice. First it was pushed to just after 1 PM and then past 3:00 PM. Thankfully we had a significant layover in Newark so we wouldn’t miss our departure from EWR at 6:40 PM.

Passing time in a congested airport with an inordinate lack of seating and throngs of people running to and fro may sound like a good time but, in all reality, it isn’t. I finished reading the Times, pretty much cover to cover by this point; watched some CNN Headline News they had playing on the overhead televisions (how many times can the same story repeat in 15 minutes? Answer: Between three and four dozen); people-watched; and then read my Hillary book.

By the time the flight was delayed for the second time we decided to find something to eat. A young couple seating next to us had sandwiches from The Atlanta Bread Co. and I decided to go hunting for a similar meal. The lines were long, to say the least, and it probably took me about 30 minutes before I got back to Travis. But, those sandwiches tasted pretty good.

After waiting (some more) they finally began boarding our plane and we were soon off to Newark. Arriving at EWR we had to change from one concourse to another and thus had to go back through security. Meaning: Off with the shoes, off with the coats and scarves, off with the belt, out with the laptop, etc.

You see, a good airport design would allow passengers to move from concourse to concourse and between connecting flights without having to go through security again. Newark fails, not only on this account, but on many other fronts too, including: Being unable to move around the airport without having to take some mode of transportation other than ones feet, having to go up elevators and escalators only to have to go back down them after 50 feet, and having to wait thirty minutes on the runway because the place handles too much traffic. Please note: I’m far from a fan of EWR.

The Continental plane we boarded was an older aircraft but well kept. The only thing I noticed that could really use some work were the television screens in the back of the headrests and the ones hanging above the aisles throughout the plane. The picture on the screens was so poor that some were unwatchable and they either needed some major contrast adjustments or, more likely, they needed to be yanked out and replaced. This, after all, wasn’t a huge deal as we both intended to attempt as much sleep as we could on the flight over.

Travis and I had no sooner completed the “inch-by-inch waddle through a cram-packed aircraft aisle” and began to settle into our seats when a verbal “altercation” broke out between the two passengers in front of us. As it turns out, he and his wife, whom speak English with some degree of difficulty, were seated in separate sections of the plane and wanted his neighbor (Scotch Girl) to switch with his wife. The neighbor is on medicine and wants a window as she has to work tomorrow. (Presumably in Zurich.) Neighbor turns the seat-switch down thus triggering a passive-aggressive retaliation throughout the remainder of the flight. Neighbor later attempts to buy four glasses of Scotch, which scares the flight attendant enough to only allow her to purchase “two now and two later” despite her pleas that she “forgot her sleeping pills and needs some sleep.” Thankfully, other than the occasional snide remark about her Scotch order, no escalation between the two occurred for the duration of the flight.

Soon dinner arrived and we were told that Continental didn’t have our vegetarian meals as ordered. We thus had to settle for the “meal without the entree,” which, turns out to be quite the misnomer as it really isn’t a “meal” at all. We enjoyed our salads and dessert and then got ready to “pretend sleep” for the remainder of the flight.

Ear plugs and night masks are truly worth their weight in gold on an overnight international flight. I only wish I could reap more benefits from them and actually sleep for more than 20 minutes at a time. Perhaps I should take a cue from Scotch Girl.

I'm posting the Switzerland blog to a different location than this one. The interface for the Blogspot site is a bit less time consuming than here and when on vacation, as we all know, time is of the essence.

Hopefully we'll have Internet access at each of our hotels, although, one is advertised at "TV Free", so we'll see. If so, I'll be posting regular updates as the trip unfolds along with lots of pictures and perhaps video. I'm also going to attempt to post the GPS logs overlaid on Google Earth maps for some of the walks/hikes we take.

If you decide to follow along don't forget to leave a comment or two for posterity. We're both really excited about this trip but the relative lack of Fools is something we'll feel. Hopefully, a little virtual interaction from you all, through comments on the blog, may help to assuage that!

Hope to see you there.

Jason