Rio de Janeiro viewed from Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf Mountain). May 7, 2010. ©ThreeCircles.net. Full image here.

Although not a great day for photos from the top of Pão de Açúcar the views of Rio, the surrounding coast, and the outer islands were spectacular. We spent several hours at the top of Sugar Loaf from about mid-afternoon on and had the chance to see clouds roll in and the lights of the city below blink on following dusk.

Near the center of the picture, the long curved beach extending into the distance is the famous Copacabana Beach. The small beach located closer to the bottom of the picture is Vermelha Beach.

Rocinha, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, May 8, 2010 ©ThreeCircles.net Full image here.

Rocinha is the largest "favela" in Rio de Janeiro with an estimated population of 250,000 people. Photo taken just inside the community and during Marcelo Armstrong's Favela Tour.

*The term "favela" (pronounced) is quite derogatory to the individuals of these communities. Our tour guide indicated that the use of the word "community" was much more favored and more accurately captured these areas of Brazil.

Thursday, May 1, 2009

Arrival at Fiumicino International Airport (also known as Leonardo da Vinci, FCO) was just about on time and we were cleared through passport control and customs without difficulty. Sporting our new European Union "I" stamps we headed up from the arrivals floor to the train station.

Heading the suggestions of the wonderfully informed, or at least usually wonderfully informed, writers of the Lonely Planet we opted to take the express train from FCO to Termini Station near the center of the city. LP was correct in the fact that this route saved both money (€24 for two versus an estimated taxi cost of 50) and time (30 minutes into the city center versus an estimated taxi run of 45-50). We purchased the Leonardo Express tickets and jumped on the next train having to wait only about five minutes.

The Italian countryside flashed by and we were soon pulling into Termini Station. Next up was the Metro A Line from Termini to Spagna (The Spanish Steps). Travis purchased biglietto integrato a tempo (BIT) tickets from a nearby tabacchis for the astoundingly low price of €1 per person. The BITs allowed for a single ride within 75 minutes. Considering our stop was only three from Termini such a ticket worked quite well.

Once we consulted the Metropolitana map, found our way to the proper station, and shoved our way through the throngs of people onto the train, it was probably less than a ten minute ride to Spagna.

Exiting the station we found ourselves at the near-end of exactly what one would imagine as a post-card perfect Italian street. The cobblestone road was fenced in on both sides by brightly painted, multistory buildings with a clear blue sky framed by their tiled roof outlines. The air was cool, surprisingly dry, and crisp while the sunshine bright and warm. In the shadows of the buildings the muted colors splashed over the walls and streets in deep grays, browns, and reds while in the full light of the morning the colors were vibrant hues of yellow, red, blue, brown, and orange.

Just a short distance down the street and we spilled out onto Piazza Di Spagna, although, at least initially, we weren't aware that we were just feet from the Spanish Steps as they were located off to our left, around the corner of a building. After a few minutes of map consultation we were off in the general direction of our hotel.

As in many European cities, the streets can certainly be a maze-like challenge and Rome was quickly proving to be no different. However, we persisted and soon found our goal.

The Hotel due Torri came with strong recommendations by both Lonely Planet and Rough Guide. Through travels to Switzerland, Thailand, Peru, England, Ireland, and Scotland, we've come to learn that both travel books can be relied upon with accurate information. However, we've also learned to give both some degree of leeway when it comes to prices and times reflected.

Checking in was quite pleasant and the receptionist provided us with a map of Rome as well as what would prove to be very helpful touring suggestions. She also asked that we stop by the desk if we needed anything, including some dining recommendations, and advised us of breakfast times.

During e-mail correspondence with the Hotel due Torri I had requested an upper level room and was very pleased to find that we had been granted our request. Our top floor room was located four flights up and provided a small terrace that looked out over the roof line of adjacent buildings. The room was well kept, provided for plenty of storage space (not that we would need much given the length of stay) and, though small as all European rooms tend to be, was brightly furnished and comfortable.

Located just north of Piazza Navone, the Due Torri, can boast of not only a great location (five minutes from the Pantheon) but a fascinating history as well. Originally the building was built for and used as a residence of Cardinals. Later its location at the end of a narrow alley served it well as a brothel. Now, its marbled stairs and gilded mirrors probably more closely reflect its original use rather than what came later.

After quick showers we grabbed the camera bags and set out on our first day of exploring Roma. First up, a short walk to the Pantheon. And short is certainly a great description. A couple of turns and and quick clip (more like two minutes versus the hotel advertised five) later we emptied out onto Piazza Della Rotonda. Although the piazza was large by any means of the word, the Pantheon was larger still and seemed to be squeezed by the surrounding buildings on three sides. Situated in front of the church, halfway between the restaurants and cafes to the North of the Pantheon and the church itself, was a large fountain situated on a raided dias. The flanking steps were crowded with what appeared to be both Roma's locals as well as Italian tourists visiting from other parts of Italy.

To stand in front of the Pantheon, in front of it's immense columns and perfectly designed pediment, in front of this temple to the Roman Gods that had stood in this very spot for over 2000 years, in front of all of that history, is simply breathtaking. Although the front facade of the building and the dome within is well known the world over, the main body of the building, located behind the columns and pediment, is equally amazing. With walls 21 feet thick the round body of the building is a sight to behold in and of itself.

The crowd at the entrance to the temple was thick and coagulated and one simply had no choice than to push your way through. Although the huge doors capped an entrance likely 20 feet wide, it was still a strain to make it into or out of the building due to the crowds and the fact that this one portal served as both entrance and exit.

Given that the Pantheon now serves as a Catholic church no charge for exploring its realms is required. We did however decide to peruse the temple with the available audio guides in hand and shelled out €4 each for the privilege.

More coming soon!

The Pantheon, Rome, Italy

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Despite the fact that we were taking less luggage than on any previous trip and that we had been packing and preparing for the better part of a week, the England, Ireland, Scotland voyage got off to a decidedly rough start.

I opted to take the entire day off rather than work in the AM and made the last minute decision that we needed a new Jan Sport bag for my camera. (Long story short, Travis was going to use GlowsMagic's Jan Sport until we discovered that it reeked of Bath & Body Works lotion. No doubt from GlowsMagic's obsession with the stuff. Seeking as we didn't want our clothes and other personal belongings to also reek, we opted to buy a new bag.) Trouble was, outside of back to school season, Jan Sports apparently aren't stocked on a regular basis in high numbers.

So, after running around the greater Clearwater area for the majority of the morning and having no Jan Sport for the effort, I sent a text to Travis to inform him he would have to run by Countryside Mall and purchase one we had seen a couple days before. At the time we were unsure of the color and wanted to look around. Would have saved a world of trouble just to buy it then.

Returning home I finished printing out hotel information, boarding passes, and the like and then started on the final items to be packed. Generally the weight of our carry on bags is of little issue since the legacy airlines, and most airlines in general, provide for generous weight allowances. Unless one is carrying a substantial number of cement cinder blocks onto the plane you're more than likely good. This trip, however, would prove different.

Our flights between the three countries were booked with Ryanair and EasyJet. The well-known, low-cost, and ultra bare bone airlines allow only one item of carry on (versus the one carry on and one personal item of most airlines) and restrictive weight allowances (Ryanair 10kg, EasyJet 20kg).

On travel morning, re-weighing our bags revealed that they probably wouldn't fly with Ryanair. So, we began to make concessions on what not to take: Zoom and micro lenses, the new netbook, etc., etc. Finally, after much frustration and hassle, we felt the weight would meet allowable levels. Zipped the bags, threw them in GlowsMagic's car, and headed off to TIA.

Traffic was fine though the ever-shifting I-275 connector and the TIA entrance gave GlowsMagic a bit of nerve shock. Arriving at the drop off curb we grabbed the bags and headed inside to check in. The airlines cost-saving efforts of moving to self serve check in kiosks is quite brilliant. Generally much more efficient for those who travel a bit as when there's no representative to be assailed by a barrage of questions by the individual in front of you things tend to move at a much better clip.

With boarding passes in hand (Continental wouldn't allow the passes to be pre-printed at home as it was an international flight) we headed to Airside A. Tampa International Airport has rolled out a three tier, "Self Select" security check point system approved by the TSA whereby passengers are asked to select the security line that is most fitting: Expert Traveler (those who know, without reminders, to remove belts, footwear, liquids, and travel light), Casual Traveler (those with multiple carry-ons and some knowledge of what's expected of them), and Family/Medical Liquid Travelers (those who have no clue what's expected of them, have children to be delt with, or who need medical liquids examined).

My first experience with this new system is that it is ingenious. There was one individual in front of us in the line and he was through in 20 seconds. We were through in probably the same amount of time with not a word from the TSA agent managing the line. The other two lines were significantly longer.

Once through security we checked the departure board and noted our flight out of TPA to Newark was already delayed. Presumably due to weather in Newark. Since neither of us had eaten and it was nearing noon we found a table at the Jose Cuervo Tequileria and settled in for some lunch and the wait for our plane.

As airport food goes the restaurant was adequate and we enjoyed the cheese quesadilla and vegetarian nachos along with a mandatory Sam Adams Lager. (Given that our stock investment in the Boston Beer Co. has nose-dived to about half the original purchase value, well, we figure someone has to attempt to help the company out.)

Throughout the meal and for the time afterward Continental kept updating our flight departure time. We ended up being delayed until 5:15 or so and were thankful that our layover in Newark provided us with enough cushion that we wouldn't miss our connection to Dublin.

The flight was generally unremarkable aside from our seat neighbor who decided, without any requests put forth to us, to re-arrange seat assignments and take the window seat. The plane was arranged 3x3 (three seats, aisle, three seats) so we purposefully booked the window seat and the aisle seat in the hopes that no one would select the middle seat and we would end up with it vacant. (We figured if someone did book the seat we would simply ask them to switch with one of us anyway.) At any rate, we were happy to have the middle and aisle seats though the flight attendants did seem confused when our pre-ordered vegetarian meals came to the woman in the window seat named Travis. Aside from her seat-switch and her ongoing migraine she was a fine seat neighbor to have.

As is generally not the case for us, our arrival and departure flights surprisingly were located in the same terminal at Newark. Though, of course, at opposite ends. We were soon seated at our departure gate and awaiting our boarding time.

During our layover we busied ourselves with an update on the cats from GlosMagic, a quick trip around the terminal, and watching the arrival of what seemed to be a large rugby contingent from some high school. Before long we had boarded the plane and were on our way to Dublin.

More coming very soon!