©ThreeCircles.net May 1, 2009.

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Thursday, May 1, 2009

Arrival at Fiumicino International Airport (also known as Leonardo da Vinci, FCO) was just about on time and we were cleared through passport control and customs without difficulty. Sporting our new European Union "I" stamps we headed up from the arrivals floor to the train station.

Heading the suggestions of the wonderfully informed, or at least usually wonderfully informed, writers of the Lonely Planet we opted to take the express train from FCO to Termini Station near the center of the city. LP was correct in the fact that this route saved both money (€24 for two versus an estimated taxi cost of 50) and time (30 minutes into the city center versus an estimated taxi run of 45-50). We purchased the Leonardo Express tickets and jumped on the next train having to wait only about five minutes.

The Italian countryside flashed by and we were soon pulling into Termini Station. Next up was the Metro A Line from Termini to Spagna (The Spanish Steps). Travis purchased biglietto integrato a tempo (BIT) tickets from a nearby tabacchis for the astoundingly low price of €1 per person. The BITs allowed for a single ride within 75 minutes. Considering our stop was only three from Termini such a ticket worked quite well.

Once we consulted the Metropolitana map, found our way to the proper station, and shoved our way through the throngs of people onto the train, it was probably less than a ten minute ride to Spagna.

Exiting the station we found ourselves at the near-end of exactly what one would imagine as a post-card perfect Italian street. The cobblestone road was fenced in on both sides by brightly painted, multistory buildings with a clear blue sky framed by their tiled roof outlines. The air was cool, surprisingly dry, and crisp while the sunshine bright and warm. In the shadows of the buildings the muted colors splashed over the walls and streets in deep grays, browns, and reds while in the full light of the morning the colors were vibrant hues of yellow, red, blue, brown, and orange.

Just a short distance down the street and we spilled out onto Piazza Di Spagna, although, at least initially, we weren't aware that we were just feet from the Spanish Steps as they were located off to our left, around the corner of a building. After a few minutes of map consultation we were off in the general direction of our hotel.

As in many European cities, the streets can certainly be a maze-like challenge and Rome was quickly proving to be no different. However, we persisted and soon found our goal.

The Hotel due Torri came with strong recommendations by both Lonely Planet and Rough Guide. Through travels to Switzerland, Thailand, Peru, England, Ireland, and Scotland, we've come to learn that both travel books can be relied upon with accurate information. However, we've also learned to give both some degree of leeway when it comes to prices and times reflected.

Checking in was quite pleasant and the receptionist provided us with a map of Rome as well as what would prove to be very helpful touring suggestions. She also asked that we stop by the desk if we needed anything, including some dining recommendations, and advised us of breakfast times.

During e-mail correspondence with the Hotel due Torri I had requested an upper level room and was very pleased to find that we had been granted our request. Our top floor room was located four flights up and provided a small terrace that looked out over the roof line of adjacent buildings. The room was well kept, provided for plenty of storage space (not that we would need much given the length of stay) and, though small as all European rooms tend to be, was brightly furnished and comfortable.

Located just north of Piazza Navone, the Due Torri, can boast of not only a great location (five minutes from the Pantheon) but a fascinating history as well. Originally the building was built for and used as a residence of Cardinals. Later its location at the end of a narrow alley served it well as a brothel. Now, its marbled stairs and gilded mirrors probably more closely reflect its original use rather than what came later.

After quick showers we grabbed the camera bags and set out on our first day of exploring Roma. First up, a short walk to the Pantheon. And short is certainly a great description. A couple of turns and and quick clip (more like two minutes versus the hotel advertised five) later we emptied out onto Piazza Della Rotonda. Although the piazza was large by any means of the word, the Pantheon was larger still and seemed to be squeezed by the surrounding buildings on three sides. Situated in front of the church, halfway between the restaurants and cafes to the North of the Pantheon and the church itself, was a large fountain situated on a raided dias. The flanking steps were crowded with what appeared to be both Roma's locals as well as Italian tourists visiting from other parts of Italy.

To stand in front of the Pantheon, in front of it's immense columns and perfectly designed pediment, in front of this temple to the Roman Gods that had stood in this very spot for over 2000 years, in front of all of that history, is simply breathtaking. Although the front facade of the building and the dome within is well known the world over, the main body of the building, located behind the columns and pediment, is equally amazing. With walls 21 feet thick the round body of the building is a sight to behold in and of itself.

The crowd at the entrance to the temple was thick and coagulated and one simply had no choice than to push your way through. Although the huge doors capped an entrance likely 20 feet wide, it was still a strain to make it into or out of the building due to the crowds and the fact that this one portal served as both entrance and exit.

Given that the Pantheon now serves as a Catholic church no charge for exploring its realms is required. We did however decide to peruse the temple with the available audio guides in hand and shelled out €4 each for the privilege.

More coming soon!

Under the dome of the Pantheon. The Pantheon held the record for the largest dome in the world for more than 1,700 years.

The Pantheon, Rome, Italy

Given the poor global economy the travel industry is in serious contraction. Amazing deals on flights around the globe can be found and we couldn't pass up a "Weekend in Rome".